Ethiopia's Danakil Depression
One of the world’s hottest, lowest, driest places, the Danakil Depression is so-called
because it lies in a desert region in northern Ethiopia where three tectonic plates have
diverged and clashed, resulting in the earth sinking in some places and rising in others.
Much of the land is about 125 metres (410 feet) below sea level while volcanos soar up
to 613 metres (2011 feet) high.
The tectonic plates move apart along deep rifts at a rate of up to 2 centimetres (0.8 inches)
a year, creating:
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lava spewing volcanoes
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thermal landscapes in bright oranges and purples
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boiling lakes bubbling ruby and emerald
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dazzling white salt pans.
Getting there
It’s impossible to visit the Danakil Depression independently. It is a sparsely-populated
desolate place with very few roads and practically no signage. The region also lies along
the Eritrean border. Relations between Eritrea and Ethiopia are unstable so everyone needs
to travel with an armed guard.
It is also very hot with little shade.
Many local agencies offer 3-4 day trips, or longer. Generally, the more expensive trips with
better facilities and more comfort leave from Addis Ababa, while the budget excursions
leave from Mekele, Ethiopia’s second city.
Flights from Addis to Mekele are frequent and take about an hour. There is basic
accommodation in Mekele and a higher-end hotel.
Check out tripadvisor and other advisory websites for recommendations from fellow travellers.
We went with a budget agency from Mekele that offered travel in air-conditioned 4-wheel
drives (essential) and provided plain nutritious food, lots of water and very basic
accommodation. These sort of trips are definitely no-frills with no toilet or bathroom facilities
(you do what the locals do and find a spare bit of desert).
We were very satisfied with our agency, who took us everywhere they said they would and
made sure we all drank plenty of water.
What to see
Erta Ale volcano
A 613-metre high active basaltic shield volcano, Erta Ale should be one of the natural
wonders of the world. It has a very large lava lake with constant mini-eruptions of molten
lava, showers of sparks and a heaving mass of black and bright red. You can go right to the
crater’s edge and experience the heat, the visual spectacle, the sulphur smell and the
excitement all at once.
The only way of getting to the top is to climb. Most trips organise for everyone to go up at
night when it is marginally cooler, then sleep at the top in sleeping bags which are taken up
by camels along with refreshments. People with limited mobility can ride a camel too. It takes
about 2 ½ to 3 hours to reach the summit. The walk is over lava and sand on uneven ground
with some easy climbing and the slopes are not steep. And it’s worth it.
Dallol
Dallol is a thermal area with geysers, boiling red lakes and steaming bubbling earth all the
colours of the rainbow. It’s a fantastic place. There are rudimentary walkways but you need to
be careful not to break the amazing mushroom and other lava formations.
Salt pans
There are several salt pans in the region which look especially stunning at sunset when their
white sand and small pools of water reflect the golds and blues of the dying day.
Salt mining
Many people in the region make a living from mining the salt which contains valuable minerals,
and is taken to markets in faraway centres by trains of camels and donkeys. On any visit to the
Danakil Depression, you are guaranteed to see at least one massive camel train surrounded
by men and boys with sticks, keeping the hard-working animals on track.
Wildlife
There is a surprising amount of wildlife in the Danakil Depression that generally roams round the Awash River, but it is very hard to see. We did catch glimpses of ostriches in the distnce but that was it.
Other wildlife you may be lucky enough to encounter includes Grevy’s zebra, Soemering’s gazelle, oryz beisa and African wild ass.
This is one destination, however, you visit for the landscape rather than the birds and animals.
There are many domestic animals including camels, donkeys, sheep and chickens and you
will see these in most villages.
People
The Afar Region where the Danakil Depression is situated is inhabited by the Afar people.
They are generally nomadic and make a living from mining salt, although some live in
makeshift villages and provide food and basic goods for army bases in the region.
The Afar people are Muslim and some of the poorest people in Ethiopia. At the same time,
they work hard and are proud of their culture. Afar people are also friendly and
hospitable and most excursions give you opportunities to meet them.
This lady owned a guesthouse we stayed in and made us coffee.
Why go?
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The word 'unique' gets used a lot and often wrongly, but the Danakil Depression really is unique. Where else will you see an active volcano, a dazzling thermal area, salt pans and boiling lakes, and experience a new culture all at the same time?
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Everything you see is likely to be remarkable and you will never see its like on the same scale again.
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It's not touristy and you are likely to have most areas entirely to yourself.
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The Danakil Depression is truly off the beaten track with few roads, large areas of undeveloped land and a small nomadic population.
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You will love it.
Do you have questions or comments about this article? Email maddestinations@gmail.com or leave a comment under the video.
