Lhasa, Top of the World, Tibet - 1
https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/707/
You can't forget a journey to a place of superlatives like Lhasa.
-
It's the highest capital city in the world.
-
It has the highest palace in the world, Potala Palace,
-
Within its small boundaries, it has three World Heritage sites - gorgeous Potala Palace, Norbulingka Summer Palace and Jokhang Temple.
-
It has koras or circuits round major sites lined with prayer wheels, lakes and greenery to promote meditation and gain merit for the journey to Nirvana.
-
It is one of the main centres for Buddhism, and Tibetan people dress traditionally, carry prayer wheels and beads, and throng the many beautiful temples.
Lhasa also has a thriving main square and market, pleasant parklands, and many restaurants serving delicious momos (Tibetan dumplings) and beer.
Plus as a major city there are busy main roads, ugly modern developments and a strong Chinese military presence.
It's a genuinely unique experience.
Things to see and do
Potala Palace
A Guide to Potala Palace, Lhasa (nationalgeographic.com)
Potala Palace is named after a sacred mountain in India which is home to the Buddha of Compassion. There are views of this exquisite white, red and amber building from practically anywhere in Lhasa,
It was built in the 7th century but became the winter home of the Dalai Lama from the 17th century.
A visit is exciting but can be quite stressful, due to the number of steps to be climbed at altitude and the crowds of tourists sharing the site with you.
Despite the ban on photography indoors, this site leaves a lasting impression with the ornate tombs of various Dalai Lamas encrusted with gems, the Buddhist deities gold-clad and adorned with precious jewels, and the sheer lusciousness of the Dalai Lama's living quarters, including a bathroom that even today people would envy.
Water fountain extravaganza
People slam the nightly water show in front of Potala Palace as tourist flim flam but many Tibetan people take their kids there to play in the water. Between 8 and 10 pm, you can just hang out there, enjoy the music and the play of water against the stunning backdrop of Potala Palace, and people watch.
It's an uplifting experience: yes, there is some Ham Chinese music but also Tibetan music and Western classics: music from around the world. I totally loved it, and enjoyed watching local people including children, enjoy it too.
Watch our video for footage of the magic fountain.
Jokhang Square and Barkhor Market
Jokhang Square is the equivalent of 'the mall'. It's the start, or part, of many koras (prayer circles) round Lhasa.
The beautiful sacred 7th century Jokhang Temple and Jokhang Monastery are World Heritage sites. These are both huge pilgrimage sites and worth a visit. At certain times of day you can see the monks debating in their mulberry robes.
If you are a devout Buddhist or interested in Tibetan Buddhism, this site provides great insight.
Adjoining Barkhor Market is the place to eat, socialise and shop. There are heaps of eateries serving momos (dumplings) and beer, stalls where you can buy food, electronic goods and furniture, and places to catch up on gossip.
Norbulingka Summer Palace
This complex was the summer residence of the Dalai Lama from the 18th century, and is now a World Heritage site.
It's so refreshing to come here to the 36 hectares of parklands, flower gardens and lakes. You can see a variety of birds, fish and flowers and just relax. Watch our video for strolls you can do round the flower gardens and lakes.
There are four palace complexes and a monastery as well as other halls and pavilions. The palaces are quite stunning, with their ornate furnishings and wall hangings, although sadly photography is forbidden.
Drepung and Sera Monasteries
https://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/tibet/lhasa/drepung.htm
https://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/tibet/lhasa/sera.htm
These monasteries, on steep shale slopes not far from Lhasa, were residences of the Dalai Lama from the 15th to 17th centuries.
They are built in classic style with lovely wall hangings and, in Drepung, graphic murals of Hell realm featuring some very cute animals like puppies and horses. There are nice gardens with flowering trees. You can see monks herding sheep on the surrounding hillsides but given how barren these are, they have to provide extra food for the animals.
The monasteries contain statues or paintings of all the Buddhist deities, and attractive relics.
Photography is allowed for a fee with proceeds going to the upkeep of the monasteries, which are in excellent condition.
Tibetan music and dance
Displays of Tibetan music and dance are shown at the major hotels and are colourful, exciting experiences with lots of athletic leaps and sword play and beautiful costumes. Although undoubtedly touristy, they are great fun and provide an insight into this complex and spiritual culture.
You can see some footage in our video.
Walk a kora
One way to enjoy this gorgeous city is to walk a kora or prayer circle with the local people. Walking the kora is an essential part of Tibetan Buddhism as the meditation, exercise and spinning of prayer wheels that line the routes are meant to centre the mind and accumulate merit. Koras are always done clockwise, generally around a sacred site. Many Tibetan people walk at least one kora a day while chanting mantras and prostrating themselves before various religious relics.
Tibetan people are honoured if you choose to walk the kora with them and you will be greeted with smiles and 'hello' as you walk.
There are three main koras in Lhasa:
-
The short kora is 1,500 metres long. It goes along Barkhor Street round Jokhang Temple, starting at the main temple entrance.
-
The medium kora is 3 kilometres long, and goes round the circumference of Potala Palace. You can start this kora anywhere round the route but are expected to do the whole circumlocution. This is the kora featured in our video, and it takes you round some attractive parts of Lhasa.
-
The long kora is round Lhasa itself. Known as the Lingkhor Kora, it is 8 kilometres long and encircles Old Lhasa City, the Potala and Chakpori (sacred mountain just to the left of Potala Palace when facing Potala Palace.
Keen walkers or keen Buddhists may wish to visit Ganden Monastery, 57 kilometres from Lhasa, and do the high and low koras through the scenic countryside. This website offers more information.
Other information
-
Currently, you can only visit Tibet as part of an organised tour although you can walk round and explore on your own once you are in Lhasa.
-
If walking a kora, please go clockwise, do not shout or laugh and respect the Tibetan pilgrims, many of whom have come from very remote areas to take part in this religous ceremony.
-
As Lhasa is at such a high altitude, you will need a couple of days to acclimatise. Be prepared to feel tired, get out of breath easily and not sleep well. Your guide will arrange in your itinerary for a slower pace of activities.
Do you have questions or comments about this article? Email maddestinations@gmail.com or leave a comment under the video
