Madagascar, Wild at Heart: Pt 1
Magical Madagascar: a country with truly unique animals, birds and landscapes. Many species live here that live nowhere else in the world, and within relatively short distances, the landscape changes as do the creatures adapted to live in it. This means everywhere you go in Madagascar is like going to a different country.
The people are lovely and although they are poor, they are proud. Outside the capital, Antananarivo, begging is rare. Tourism is also still not generally well-developed so a trip to Madagascar is a genuine experience and a true adventure.
About this video
This video is Part 1 of a three-week trip across this amazing country. It covers:
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the lemur park just outside the capital, Antananarivo
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our trek across the deforested highlands and woodland oases of north-western Madagascar
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a visit to Ankavandra, a village full of friendly people
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canoeing down Manambolo River and its gorgeous tributaries of crystal clear water ideal for swimming.
Lemurs in this video
The book Mammals of Madagascar by Nick Garbutt, as well as websites displayed below, is a great source of information about lemurs and other mammals.
This video covers a trip to the lemur park just outside the capital, Antananarivo. You can get there by public transport but it's very slow so it's best to take a tour. Once at the park, a guide is compulsory but also great as they are knowledgeable and enthusiastic. This is what we found out about the lemurs we saw:
Ring-tailed lemur Lemur catta
https://www.nationalgeographic.com/animals/mammals/r/ring-tailed-lemur/
Range: across southern Madagascar
Habitat: varies
Sociable, extroverted and fun, ring-tailed lemurs are very popular with Madagascan visitors. They are the most terrestrial species of lemur: that is, they are happier moving along the ground than climbing trees.
Ring-tailed lemurs:
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have the broadest habitat range of any lemur
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are very adaptable, with a varied diet ranging from fruit, leaves and bark to insects and small chameleons
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are very sociable, living in groups of more individuals than other lemurs, averaging 13 to 15 lemurs.
The alpha female heads the group. Females are dominant, with males moving from group to group to mate. Groups have home ranges with the alpha female responsible for defence.
During mating season in April and May, males rub their own secretions into their tails and have 'stink fights' to establish a hierarchy.
Black-and-white ruffed lemur Varecia variegate
http://www.iucnredlist.org/details/22918/0
Range: eastern Madagascar
Habitat: rainforest
The black-and-white ruffed lemur is the most frugivorous of lemurs, that is, their diet consists almost entirely of fruit, making them dependent on healthy rainforest habitat and vulnerable to habitat disturbance. That may be one reason why they have the largest litter size of any lemur, having up to 5 babies at once. Even so, they are a critically endangered species
This lemur is the main pollinator of the traveller’s tree Ravenala madagascariensis, a tall palm-like tree topped with a single vertical fan of large leaves. This tree is an important source of food for many lemurs.
These beautiful lemurs live in small groups high in the rainforest canopy. They produce a chorus of deep, barking, alarm calls that can be heard from great distances on a still night and call with a wailing howl when defending their territory.
Coquerel's sifaka Varecia variegate
http://www.iucnredlist.org/details/22918/0
https://lemur.duke.edu/discover/meet-the-lemurs/coquerels-sifaka/
Range: north-western Madagascar
Habitat: dry deciduous and semi-evergreen forest
The attractive Coquerel's sifaka mostly moves upright so they can easily leap from the ground into trees. Like many lemur species, they are matriarchal and live in small groups where dominant females deny males food until they are satisfied. Our guide at the lemur park told us they peel bananas before eating them.
These lemurs are good for environment as they help disperse seeds of native plants. They are terrestrial and arboreal, and are endangered as they are hunted for food. They are hard to see in the wild.
Common brown lemur Eulemur fulvus
http://www.lemurreserve.org/lemurs/common-brown-lemur-2/
Range: north Madagascar
Habitat: various
The common brown lemur is anything but common. This inquisitive and intelligent lemur is classified as near threatened due to habitat destruction. They eat insects, fruits, leaves, insects and occasionally small birds and eggs.
Diurnal, they can also feed at night. These sociable animals live in groups of 5-12 individuals, averaging 8 to 9. There are no dominance hierarchies, and home ranges can overlap with those of other groups.
Crowned sifaka Propithecus coronatus
http://www.iucnredlist.org/details/18356/0
Range: western Madagascar in small separated areas
Habitat: deciduous forest and mangroves
The crowned sifaka spends most of their time in trees, foraging or grooming and interacting with other members of their small group of between 2 and 8 individuals. Groups have small home ranges but are very territorial and will defend home ranges aggressively.
These lovely lemurs are endangered due to habitat loss and capture for the illegal pet trade.
They eat buds, leaves and fruit.
Grey mouse lemur Microcebus murinus
http://www.bbc.co.uk/nature/life/Gray_Mouse_Lemur
Range: westerm Madagascar
Habitat: deciduous forest, including degraded forest.
Mouse lemurs are the smallest primates, but the grey mouse lemur is the biggest of these. This tough but cute lemur is nocturnal and arboreal, foraging alone at night. During the day, they rest in tree hollows lined with leaf-litter or will also build spherical nests from dead leaves and moss in dense undergrowth.
Generally, these lemurs do not rest alone. They will nest with their mate during breeding season and females will stay with their babies, while both genders will sleep with members of the same species at other times.
This lemur uses the same hollow or nest for up to 5 days and can share nests with up to 15 other mouse lemurs. During winter, they can reduce their metabolic rate during the day to conserve energy resources.
At night they move quickly, leaping between and sprinting along branches, to escape owls, their main predator.
Getting to Madagascar
https://www.air-austral.com/en.html
Most international flights land in Madagascar's capital, Antananarivo. Most international travellers will need to stop elsewhere in Africa to change flights. However, Air Austral, a French airline based in the Indian Ocean, is a reasonably priced, reliable airline that flies to Reunion Island from several destinations including:
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Perth, Australia
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Bangkok, Thailand; Chennai, India; and Guangzhou, China
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Johannesburg, South Africa
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most European countries, with many ports in France.
Reunion Island is a lovely place with beaches, cirque trekking and even a volcano. From Reunion, it's only a 2-hour flight to Antananarivo.
Trekking and canoeing down Manambolo River
Many travel companies in and outside Madagascar can organise a trek across the northern highlands to a village by Manambolo River which you can then canoe down to get to Tsinghy de Bemeraha National Park. See the trip advisor link above for more information.
We trekked for two days but you can trek between one and three. Ensure your trekking trip includes some woodland patches, even if these are small, as it is here you will see most of your wildlife. We saw frogs, Madagascan paradise flycatchers and chameleons.
Ensure your canoeing trip includes a journey up one of the tributaries near or along the Manambolo Gorge. Unlike the river, which is a brown murky colour, the tributaries contain limestone and the water is turquoise and crystal clear. These beautiful places are great for wildlife viewing (birds, fish, chameleons, even red-fronted brown lemurs if you are very lucky) and wonderful for swimming in. The diversity of plant life is also astounding.
Although murky, the Manambolo River does not have bilharzia and is safe for washing yourself and kitchen utensils. There are many sandy beaches that are great for camping. Ensure your guides or porters or you yourself dig deep toilet holes and fill them in when you leave to preserve the precious environment.
Why go?
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Magical Madagascar has a high rate of endemism with many plants and animals seen nowhere else in the world.
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The country is astoundingly beautiful.
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The people are friendly and welcoming.
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Madagascar is a poor country. The government is trying to conserve precious habitats in a comprehensive national park system supported by local communities but needs tourist dollars to help it succeed. Tourists also help local people make a living as rangers, guides and administrative staff.
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Lemurs, lemurs, lemurs. From stunning to downright cute, these endearing animals will win your heart.
Do you have questions or comments about this article? Email maddestinations@gmail.com or leave a comment under the video
