Sagrada Familia, Barcelona, Spain
There’s a good reason why the Sagrada Familia (Holy family) in Barcelona is Spain’s most visited tourist attraction and why it’s my favourite building of all time.
Its stained glass windows paint the interior in jewelled hues, sinuous curves reflect light and colour and the sheer size of its tree-like pillars soaring to a ceiling of flower-like stars take your breath away.
The exterior is equally impressive, with columns adorned with fruits and doves down which stone lizards slither, its skeletal spine and its facades chiselled with exquisite stonework.
Your mouth wide open and your heart soaring, let your camera go crazy and float amidst the beauty.
About the architect
https://www.biography.com/people/antoni-gaud%C3%AD-40695
http://www.theartstory.org/artist-gaudi-antoni.htm
Photo of Gaudi in 1878 by Pablo Audouard Deglaire (1856-1919) obtained from Wikimedia Creative Commons.
Born in 1852, with a flair for design and mathematics, Antoni Gaudi studied architecture at university, adopting the Catalan Modernista movement and then transcending it with his highly individual style. He loved to juxtapose:
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the spiritual and natural with his works embracing the beauty of plants and animals and the religious symbolism of the bible
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different materials (ceramics, stonework, iron, stained glass)
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shapes (straight lines, cones, leaf and flower shapes)
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bright contrasting colours - he said that 'Colour in certain places has the great value of making the outlines and structural planes seem more energetic'.
His own life embraced these contradictions. Quiet and introspective, he nevertheless dressed like a dandy when younger, enjoyed going to the theatre with friends and loved nature, spending much of his time walking.
As an older man he dressed like a beggar, became deeply pious and gave the last 15 years of his life to the creation of his favourite building, the Sagrada Familia, working full-time in an on-site workshop.
Devoted to his work, he enjoyed collaborating with others. His friends loved him though strangers found him abrupt and taciturn. He never married.
He died in a tram accident in 1926 at the age of 73 and is buried in the chapel of Our Lady of Mount Carmel in the crypt of the Sagrada Familia.
Features of Gaudi's style
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Designing in three dimensions, Gaudi preferred to construct models rather than draw plans, and only sketched his works when required to by authorities.
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Gaudi invented the equilibrated structure — that is, it could stand on its own without internal bracing or external buttressing. He used columns that tilted and branched out like trees, such as the central nave of the Sagrada Familia.
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His designs were organic and his buildings almost breathe, they are so brimming with life, movement and energy. Inspired by nature, Gaudi said 'Those who look for the laws of nature as a support for their new works collaborate with the creator'.
Google ‘Antoni Gaudi’ to find out more about this visionary genius.
What to see
http://www.sagradafamilia.org/en/
https://www.barcelona-tourist-guide.com/en/gaudi/sagrada-familia.html
The Sagrada Familia is still only 70% constructed. The aim is to complete it in 2026, 100 years since the death of Antoni Gaudi.
The cathedral combines neo-Gothic and Art Nouveau styles with Gaudi’s organic, colourful, over-the-top style that leaves you awestruck.
Gaudi believed in mixing and matching styles and taking them to their limits, saying:
‘The proof that Gothic works are of deficient plasticity is that they produce their greatest emotional effect when they are mutilated, covered in ivy and lit by the moon.’
The 3 facades
The three facades, representing the Nativity, Glory and Passion of Christ may be covered in sculptural decoration from the life of Christ but the sculptures relegate Jesus to a minor figure, emphasising the characters around him and figures of animals such as horses and birds.
The Nativity Façade, celebrating Christ’s birth, has a door covered in gorgeous metalwork of green and red leaves and golden flowers, while the Passion Façade, which dealt with Jesus’ crucifixion highlights the suffering and brutality of individuals: a grieving old man, an emaciated figure tied to a post, cruel soldiers like Sydney Nolan depictions of Ned Kelly.
The 18 towers
Each of the 18 towers has a religious significance. In the middle is the tower dedicated to Jesus Christ and around it are 4 towers representing the Gospels; Matthew, Mark, Luke and John. The tower above the apse, crowned by a star, represents his mother Mary, while the remaining 12 towers represent the apostles.
Lizards and snakes slither down the towers’ exteriors which are decorated with huge bowls of colourful fruit and spangled circles.
Central nave
Inside, the church has a 5-aisle Latin cross plan reminiscent of traditional Catholic cathedral architecture but the central nave has to be seen to be believed with pillars made of obsidian resembling trees rising to a ceiling of pink, gold and white stars, while a crucified Jesus hangs suspended from the nave beneath windows reflecting smoky golden light.
Play of light and colour
The plentiful stained glass windows reflect a myriad of colours against the walls and across the floor, washing the sinuous balustrades and organ pipes in rainbow hues. The colours represent the elements: red and yellow are fire and air while blue and green are water and earth. You could stand there for hours just watching the ever changing play of colours.
I could go on all day… just go there and see the magic for yourself.
Getting there and getting in
Getting to the Sagrada Familia is easy. It's in a central location so you can walk there from most hotels and backpackers. There are plenty of cafes around for snacks and cathedral watching. Your accommodation can advise you on bus routes to the cathedral and if you like tours there are plenty on offer.
It's getting in that's hard. The place is always swarming with tourists, night and day at all times of year. You can turn up and hope to get a ticket but you may have a long wait or even have to go back the next day.
The best thing to do is book online at http://www.sagradafamilia.org/en/tiquets/. The best times of day are early morning and late afternoon when the play of light and shadow is particularly dramatic, and these times are often reserved months in advance. Book as early as you can.
Positives about booking online are that you can save money by booking other Gaudi attractions with a discount, and choose the timeslot you want.
Why go?
I've already covered that. You can't not go.
Do you have questions or comments about this article? Email maddestinations@gmail.com or leave a comment under the video.
